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Raising Australian Labradoodle Puppies for Your Family
ArborGate Education
At ArborGate Labradoodles we want to send our puppies to their new families as well socialized pups. We take a number of steps that are based on animal behavior research to ensure that our puppies have had the necessary experiences for them thrive. We give our puppies a solid foundation on which to achieve their fullest potential as your new family member. This section should give you an idea of the events and exposure your puppy has while with us. It’s a guideline detailing the time, effort and love that goes into each of our puppies. Hopefully, it will give you confidence in the fact that you are purchasing a well socialized pup that has been given the best start in life.
 An ArborGate Labradoodle puppy’s education
starts from even before Day 1…
Prenatal Period: Before puppies are born
Research has shown that a litter is more docile when the mother dog is petted. It has a calming effect on the offspring that she is carrying. A low stress environment for the pregnant mother has shown to produce puppies that are more emotionally balanced.
We provide our mothers-to-be with this type of calm and loving environment.
Neonatal Period: 1-12 days old
Puppies of this age can’t hear or see very well. They enjoy being in their whelping box with their mother and their litter mates.
- We evaluate our puppies early on with the Biotinus test or the “vigor of life test”. This test is performed immediately after puppy is toweled off. Puppy is placed 2 puppy lengths away from its mother, facing in the opposite direction. We time how long it takes for the puppy to get to its first meal without any human interference, but of course the puppy’s’ mother can aid her puppy if she chooses.
- On day three of the puppy’s life we begin early neurological stimulation exercises practiced daily between the ages of 3 - 16 days. This gives the puppy’s neurological system a head start. It consists of 5 different exercises designed to stimulate the neurological system. The five exercises are:
- Tactile stimulation - holding the pup in one hand, the handler gently stimulates the pup between the toes on any one foot using a Q-tip. Time of stimulation 3 - 5 seconds.
- Head held erect - using both hands, the pup is held perpendicular to the ground. Time of stimulation 3 - 5 seconds.
- Head pointed down - holding the pup firmly with both hands the head is reversed and is pointed downward so that it is pointing towards the ground. Time of stimulation 3 - 5 seconds.
- Supine position - holding the pup so that its back is resting in the palm of both hands with its muzzle facing the ceiling. Time of stimulation 3-5 seconds.
- Thermal stimulation - using a damp towel that has been cooled in a refrigerator for at least five minutes. The pup is placed on the towel, feet down. It is not restrained from moving. Time of stimulation 3-5 seconds.
These exercises impact the neurological system by jump starting it into action earlier than would otherwise be expected. The benefits include: improved cardio vascular performance (heart rate), stronger heart beats, stronger adrenal glands, more tolerance to stress and a greater resistance to disease.
- Dr. Michael Fox conducted a study showing that puppies that have been mildly stressed during the first 5 weeks will develop into dogs which are superior when put in learning or competitive situations. They are better able to handle stress, are more outgoing and learn more quickly. Mild physical stress at an early age will actually increase the size of the brain. So, we provide challenges such as removing the pup from its mother by only a foot and placing an easily overcome barrier in the way. The puppy has to orientate itself, make it over the simple barrier to find its mother. This sort of challenge is designed for the puppy to succeed and then be rewarded for its efforts. This will build the pup’s confidence.
- Our family interacts with them and handles them on a daily basis.
Transitional Period: 13-20 days old
During this stage, puppies’ eyes open and they begin to hear. They also start to learn how to walk on wobbly legs. Puppies are capable of responding to taste and smell.
- We start to introduce new items of interest to the whelping box. Simple things such as a cardboard box, plastic milk jug, new piece of flooring or knotted towel.
- Since they can now respond to smell, we begin to introduce some new scents.
- An introduction with a friendly cat is on the agenda.
- Positive and rewarding challenges are continued from the Neonatal stage.
- The early neurological stimulation exercises also continue into this stage.
- Puppies interact with our family and are handled on a daily basis.
Awareness Period: 21-23 days old
This is a time of very rapid sensory development. Puppies are able to use their senses of sight and hearing.
- We keep a very stable environment during this short period because with all the new things the puppies are taking in, we want to make sure they don’t get overwhelmed.
- Each day we take them out and introduce them to a new flooring type such as: concrete, linoleum, carpet, wood, grass.
- Now that their sense of hearing is developed, we start to introduce sounds. This is done gradually both in noise types and noise volumes.
- We continue to introduce the puppies to different scents.
- Some more physical and mental challenges are offered to the puppies.
- They are continuously interacting with us and our children and are being handled daily.
Canine Socialization Period: 21-49 days old
You wouldn’t think that a dog needs to learn to be a dog, but they do! This is a very important time for puppies. They learn basic dog behavior like barking, biting, fighting, chasing and body postures. They learn to play with their litter mates and how to relate to other dogs. The puppies even develop a pack hierarchy through play. Puppies learn to accept discipline from their mother and about submissive posturing. It is also during this stage that the mother will start to wean her puppies.
- We encourage lots of play time. A puppy at play is such a wonderful thing!
- This is the time when we introduce a crate. The puppies are developing the innate desire to eliminate outside of the sleeping/play area. We introduce the crate as a safe sleeping area at least 3 feet from the area we want them to start eliminating in. This will help make house training easier.
- Each puppy is given lots of one-on-one time with us.
- We introduce the puppies to car rides.
- This is the period when we start to work on separation. We want separation to have positive associations, so we start gradually giving each pup a bit of time on their own.
- We provide the puppies with a sensory rich environment.
- Exposure to new sounds, scents, and challenges is continued.
- Once they have had their shots, we begin with the introduction of strangers: tall, short, large and small. Those with beards, canes, and funny hats!
- We begin doing some positive training sessions once they’re 35 days old.
- Once they have their shots, they get to venture outside for some serious exploring.
- At 49 days old, we have a temperament test performed on each puppy to further assess their personality so that we can place them with the most suitable family.
Human Socialization Period: 7-12 weeks
By this time, puppies should be completely weaned. This period is when the most rapid learning occurs. Things that happen now will have the greatest impact on puppy’s future social behavior. Puppies at this stage have an easier time accepting new situations, objects, noises, etc. As the puppies gets older it will be harder for them to become comfortable with new things.
- For their remaining time with us we will introduce them to as many people as we can. We want them to have seen a whole range of different people before leaving us.
- More playtime with mom and litter mates.
- We will continue to reinforce the potty area and continue to increase their separation time.
- Lots of love and caring, with attention given to one-on-one time with each pup.
- Mental and physical challenges will continue.
- Short, positive training sessions will be a regular event.
- By now, puppies should be very familiar with their crates, many noises, flooring types, scents, people of different ages, and so much more!
- All pet puppies will be desexed at this time, and then return for a recovery time with their litter mates and their mom before they are picked up or shipped to their new homes.
Once they get home to you, there is still so much for them to see and learn. Enroll in a puppy socialization class and have fun with your ArborGate Labradoodle puppy!
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Puppy Development Stages
Puppies will go through a number of different stages as they grow and develop. The more you know about the stages in a puppy’s life, the better equipped you’ll be to deal with the many situations that will arise. Some stages will be more challenging than others, but always remember to be consistent in your training and behavior correction. This commitment will lead to a happy and well adjusted member of your family.
Puppy Toddlers Period (3 - 8 Weeks)
“Mom teaches dog manners”
During the Toddler period, the labradoodle puppies emerge on their own from the litter. They venture into the surrounding environment. These lessons learned in the toddler stage are CRITICAL. Puppies removed too early tend to be nervous, tend to bark inappropriately, tend to bite simply because these lessons a mother and littermates usually provide were missed. Training problems and long-term behavior problems can often be attributed to a puppy removed from the litter much too soon.
Beginning at 3 weeks of age, what is going on:
The first lessons learned are dog specific behavioral patterns.
- They will learn various posture meanings and their effects to their mother and littermates.
- They will learn how to bite and what it is like to be bitten.
- They will learn what barking and other vocalizations mean and their uses.
- They will learn how to establish social relationships with other dogs.
Beginning at 5 weeks of age, what is going on:
Vocalization and tempered activities (dog manners) usually are learned at approximately 5 weeks of age.
- They will learn how to be submissive to the leader of the pack.
- They will learn and refine additional postures, vocalizations and acceptable dog interaction behaviors.
What the Puppy’s mother will do:
The mother will growl, snarl and snap to communicate. With a few very clear signals and repetitions, the young puppy will learn quickly. At that point a mother's glare or low growl is all that is needed to keep a young pup in line. Littermates also learn clear signals of communication to each other.
Socialization Period (7-12 Weeks) / First Fear Imprint Period (8-11 Weeks) “Lasting impact, rapid learning”
Dogs that are denied socialization during this critical Socialization period often become unpredictable because they are fearful or aggressive. It is during this time, that your dog needs to have positive experiences. They need to be introduced to new things and begin the groundwork to a happy, well-adjusted dog.
Beginning at 7 weeks of age, what is going on:
- Short attention spans.
- Things learned are permanent and will be resistant to change.
- Puppy will be eager to learn.
- What he does and learns now, he will do as an adult.
- Puppy’s temperament and personality will become more apparent.
- Puppy will be transitioning his education from his mother to his human environment.
Beginning at 8 weeks-11 weeks of age, what is going on:
- Any traumatic, painful or frightening experiences can have a lasting impact.
What You Can Do:
- Gradually introduce your puppy to new things, environments and people.
- Make experiences positive (provide treats or toys)
- Don’t push your puppy into fearful situations – take things slowly and allow him to adjust and get used to the situation.
- Do not let others push your puppy or be forceful with them.
- Provide a secure comforting demeanor.
- Teach the puppy you are there to protect and lead.
Seniority Classification Period (12-16 Weeks)
“You’re not the boss of me!”
The puppy has been in the home now for a few weeks. He has been watching you and the family very closely. He is picking up on human behaviors and reactions. He is learning the pecking order of the pack. As he observes and learns, he will then attempt to figure out where exactly he stands in the pack order, and to also see if moving up in the pack will work. After all, he knows who the “weak links” are and will start at the bottom and try to move right up the pack. How could such a cute little pup be such a pistol?
Beginning 12-16 weeks of age, what is going on:
- Puppy will begin to question authority.
- Puppy will attempt to move himself up in the pack order.
- Puppy will try to dominate.
- Puppy will grab leashes
- Puppy will try to determine what activities are going to be done and when.
- Puppy may growl.
- Puppy may put his mouth on you.
- Puppy can often become over excited.
What you can do:
- Learn how your actions and body language communicate to your dog.
- Suggested reading: The Dog Listener – Author Jan Fennell
- Do not play aggressive games during this phase. (Tug or wrestling)
- If puppy becomes over excited, growls or mouths you, you stop all activity.
- Be very aware of how the puppy interacts with children – do not leave children unattended with the puppy.
- Enroll in a puppy kindergarten class to redirect some of the energy.
- Evaluate the whole family’s methods of interactions and corrections and make sure that all are consistent and clear. (Unified front concept here)
Flight Instinct Period (4 - 8 Months)
“Fly like an Eagle, into the wind”
Your cute little puppy has been following you around for weeks now. He has been aware of where you are and would stay pretty close. During this period that same cute little puppy will decide that he is ready to go solo and take off running quicker than lightening. During this time, teaching the puppy that he must stay close by or come when called is critical. The failure to do this will result in a dog that will not be reliable to come or to stay close by as an adult and very well could lead the dog into a life or death situation.
What is going on:
- The puppy will become more independent.
- A puppy that previously would never go very far, will venture off.
- The puppy will ignore commands to stay close or come.
- How you handle refusal to come or stay will affect future reliability off leash.
- Puppy will be clever in attempts to run around loose.
What you can do:
- Leash on 100% of the time they are not in a confined area.
- Never allow dog loose in an unconfined area. (Yes this is a repetition of the first point, so it must be pretty important for us to say it twice.)
- Being off leash outside of a confined area is reserved for those who have been well trained.
- Enroll in training class that utilizes positive training techniques.
- Reinforce and continue to train your puppy “come”.
- Make coming a very positive experience.
- Oh… and never allow your puppy to be off leash in an unconfined area.
Adolescence Period (7 - 10 months)
“Welcome to the Teenage Years – Enjoy the Ride”
This is one of the most difficult times for pet owners. They are so surprised when their puppy turns into “devil dog” or “Cujo”. This often is a time when many families start to worry that maybe they made a bad decision in getting a dog. Remember: you get what you put into it. If you take the time right now to teach good habits, you will have the dog you always dreamed of for many years. This work will payoff.
What is going on:
- The puppy will become a free and independent thinker.
- The puppy will continue to review the pack order.
- The puppy will be very energetic.
- The puppy will be exuberant and enthusiastic.
- They turn into clowns with teeth.
- They will delight in learning new and fun things.
What you can do:
- Appreciate the humor of it all.
- Have you read the book The Dog Listener yet? It will help.
- Understand that despite the behaviors it is your time to continue to train and reinforce the things you do want him to do.
- Reaffirm the family pack order.
- Be realistic about expectations (still very much a puppy in a big boy body)
- Channel all that energy into positive learning experiences.
- Continue with training classes; explore options for additional training opportunities.
Second Fear Imprint Period (6 - 14 Months)
“Yikes! What’s up with that?”
You have a puppy that is full of beans, he runs around like a clown in search of his next show. But then, BAM, he refuses to walk down some stairs, he is shaking in the car, or he jumps at the sound of the neighbor’s music. Surprise! This is normal, but you must help your dog figure out how to deal with his fears or concerns. The skills of learning how to “shake it off and keep going” will be valuable to him for the rest of his life. It will also reduce the chances that the things he fears will not be permanently imprinted for life.
What is going on:
- The puppy that was so confident will suddenly become reluctant to try new things.
- This period can be subtle.
- This period can come and go several times over this entire period.
- It may appear to be unprovoked or unrelated to any specific occurrence.
- Puppy can become frustrating to owners.
- You may notice this behavior more in males.
What you can do:
- Avoid extremes in your response (no anger or forcing or over-comforting)
- Be patient and understanding.
- Be aware of surrounding and potential triggers.
- Work on desensitizing him with gradual introductions with rewards.
- Avoid too much reassurance or coddling (which is a reward for this behavior)
- Don’t over-react or correct the fearfulness – just make light of it and encourage him to deal with his fear (work through the fear).
- Praise with grand rewards for his attempts.
- Your dog will take his clues from you, if you act frightened or concerned he will too.
Mature Adulthood Development Period (1 - 3 Years)
“I shall protect thy kingdom!”
So the puppy is no longer an itty-bitty baby, he is pretty much fully-grown in height. He will begin to fill out a bit and develop more muscle tone. But, mentally, the dog is still working out some last details of his life and what it means to him. He IS a member of a pack and now begins to find that his turf is worthy of monitoring and protecting. Sort of sounds nice to have your dog be protective, but don’t fall for it. You do not want you dog to take over these responsibilities because in no time you too will be under the rule of the King Dog. This can lead to aggressive behaviors, protective to the point of creating fear or actually harming someone or another animal as he protects. This is bad news, and often a reason a dog is taken out of the home or put down. So, don’t allow your dog to be the King of the Castle; assign him the role of court jester – he will be happier and so will your family.
What is going on:
- The dog may become more turf protective.
- Strangers may be greeted with barking.
- Barking at noises, birds, cars, butterflies, and pretty much everything he believes to be worthy of attention.
- Playing with other dogs may escalate to fighting.
- Same sex confrontations of other dogs can occur.
- Once again, checking the pack order to see if he can move up.
What you can do:
- Reinforce how to greet strangers into your home.
- Teach your dog to ignore dogs he cannot be nice to.
- Practice or reinforce dog manners (utilizing no threatening dogs)
- Learn to read your dog and other dogs. (Circling, walking on toes, stiff tail wags, tense facial expressions – are the signs of aggressive behaviors)
- Rally your family to review that the pack order is clear and be very consistent with training and corrections.
- Reward him for good behaviors.
- Give that dog another job, therapy work, obedience classes, agility.
Information provided by International Doodle Owners Group - IDOG.Biz copyright 2006
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Puppy Care
Food
We feed our puppies 3 times a day until they reach approximately 19 weeks old. Then we switch to 2 meals per day, one in the morning and one in the evening.
We will send you home with a sample package of the dog food that they were on while in our home. If you plan on switching, please do so gradually as to not upset their stomachs.
Click Here for a great site that rates the different dog foods. I love this site; it’s filled with great information.
Whole Dog Journal is an informative monthly newsletter packed with wonderful stuff. They also do a dog food review that is invaluable. To check it out Click Here.
Clean, fresh water should always be freely available.
Apple Cider Vinegar is said to have a large number of benefits for them. For more information: Click Here
Sleeping
Your new puppy will be missing its mother and litter mates and the comfort of cuddling with them to sleep. It may help to rumple up the bedding and roll up some towels for puppy to snuggle up to. Each pup will go home with a cloth that has been rubbed against their mom and will retain her smell. Put this with your puppy so the familiar smell will help puppy settle in for the night. Some soft music or a ticking clock can also be helpful.
It may help to put puppy’s crate next to your bed for the first few nights until puppy get comfortable sleeping alone. Your presence will be reassuring.
Your puppy will need to go out in the middle of the night, so wear your warm PJs.
House Training
Your puppy will come to you already familiar with the crate. It’s been introduced as a safe sleeping den environment.
House training is more about your vigilance than it is about the puppy. Restrict the area your puppy can be while indoors. Watch your puppy like a hawk. If they show signs like circling or sniffing, carry them outside. It’s best if you can take them to a specific spot, they’ll learn that to be the “potty spot” and it’ll make picking up after them a lot easier in the long run. When puppy goes in the right place, have a little party and then go back inside. Don’t stay out and play or the puppy won’t make the connection between “If I go outside then I’m allowed inside.” Start with allowing puppy 30 minutes of time free inside with you, and then put puppy back in its crate so puppy will be able to practice the “hold-it” portion of the learning process. Puppy should be able to hold it for an hour, then let puppy out and go directly outside to the potty spot. Once puppy goes, have a party and then take puppy back inside for some free time with you.
As puppy succeeds with the free time, you can lengthen the time. Soon puppy will be spending a few hours with you, an hour in the crate and then pottying outside. This routine will take time and lots of commitment. Once puppy understands that outside is the place to go, you can give puppy more free space in the house.
Remember, puppies need to go to the toilet at some predictable times such as after waking up from a sleep, after eating or drinking, after anything exciting....and then some!
Exercise
Puppies under 1 year old should have restricted time on the leash. Jogging for miles or going on very long walks on the leash forces the puppy to perform the same mechanical movement at the same pace for long periods of time. This is not natural for puppies. Puppies are used to changing pace frequently, galloping one minute and then trotting the next. If puppies are forced to maintain a pace for a long time, it can damage ligaments and immature joints. Playing outside and short periods on leash will provide puppy a safe amount of exercise.
Leash Times:
10 wks-4 months: Puppies could safely do a 15 minute walk on leash.
4-8 months: Puppies could do up to 45 minutes daily as long as the walk is interspersed with free play.
8-12 months: Puppies can handle an hour long walk once daily and maybe a shorter walk later the same day.
Running up and down stairs, jumping off high places, slipping and sliding on polished floors, and standing on just their back legs can cause damage to puppy’s joints. Puppies should not be allowed to do any of the above. Failure to observe these things can induce hip dysplasia and other joint problems even in a healthy puppy.
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Puppy Supplies
Here is a list of the things you will need to have on hand to start your puppy's new life with your family.
- Crate to sleep in - every dog needs a safe place to sleep or nap.
- Airline carry kennel for trips to the vet or around town.
- Baby gate(s) to contain your puppy to areas that are allowed.
- Soft towels or baby blankets - as they are the right size to roll up and leave in the crate.
- Stainless steel non-slip bowls are good and easy to clean.
- Puppy shampoo - we use Fauna.
- Nail clippers if you are experienced.
- Tennis balls, squeaky balls, any strong ball to chase.
- Dog brush
- A toothbrush and some doggy toothpaste.
- Collar
- I.D. Tags are a must.
- Leash, 4-6 ft. to start training.
- Cleaner that has active enzymes to clean up any indoor accidents.
- Puppy books that I’ve recommended further down this page.
- An extra dose of patience for you on the days you wonder who is training who.
- Dog bed once your pup has learned what is allowed to be chewed and what is not.
Resources
Here is a list of resources that I have found helpful and informative:
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